‘Where’s that?’ was the most common thing people asked me
when I told them I’d be visiting Georgia. ‘Is that in America?’ others would
ask. Whilst an American state goes by the same name, my adventure was in fact
headed in the opposite direction. Georgia is a part of the Caucasus region– a small
and diverse cluster of nations squashed between Russia and the Middle East. This incredible and rarely-explored country
straddles the cultural and geographic boundary between Europe and Asia, showcasing
the best of both worlds.
I gazed in awe from the plane window as the seemingly
endless sun-baked grasslands and distant rocky peaks drew closer; the country
felt different from anywhere I’d ever been before right from the start. Passport control was quick and easy and the
bus journey into the city cost pennies. The
trip was off to a good start.
My adventure began in Tbilisi, the Georgian capital. It’s is a fascinating place to explore - so many
influences fuse together to shape this city into the cultural and architectural
patchwork it is today. Pretty buildings
with colourful, wooden balconies hug the Medieval fortress in the oldest part
of the city, whilst grand European-style boulevards dominate the newer
neighbourhoods of Rustaveli and Marjanishvili.
The Soviet influence is most notable in the suburbs, with the
characteristic and uninviting ‘grey belt’ of apartment blocks.
A good place to start exploring is Tbilisi’s old town. Take in the uplifting atmosphere and historic
landmarks then cross the Mtkvari River via the futuristic ‘Peace Bridge’. From here, you can take the cable car (for 2
GEL each way) up over the city to the Narikala Fortress and the imposing Mother
Georgia statue. From up here there are
panoramic views over most of the city. On
the other side of Tbilisi, it’s worth walking up the hill to see the impressive
Holy Trinity Cathedral. Georgia is a
deeply religious country – around 86% of the population identifies as Eastern
Orthodox Christian. It would be
difficult to fully experience Georgian culture without visiting some churches –
they’re all so beautiful.
Crossing over to the newer part of the city, you’ll come to
Freedom Square, which is essentially the city’s beating heart. Rustaveli and Marjanishvili are home to most
of the major shops and theatres along with some of the city’s grandest
architecture.
Perhaps the nicest thing about Tbilisi is the fact it’s not
completely overrun by tourists. It lacks
the pristine feel of the western world; it’s gritty, chaotic and parts of the
city are in disrepair. It’s a ‘real’
working city which gives a truly authentic view into life in this part of the
world. It’s also one of the friendliest
places I’ve visited – I found the Georgian people very welcoming and hospitable
as well as being deeply patriotic.
Undoubtedly the easiest and most popular day trip outside of
Tbilisi is the ancient UNESCO-listed town of Mtskheta, the ex-capital of
Georgia. Mtskheta is one of the most
important spiritual centres of the South Caucasus. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro and
Jvari monasteries are fantastic both inside and out. It’s such a peaceful place. The 6th century Jvari Monastery
clings to a hilltop above Mtskheta, giving amazing views over the town and
surrounding countryside.
The easiest and most informative way of seeing Mtskheta is
through an organised tour from Tbilisi – these generally run for half a day and
should cost around 25 GEL (when I visited, 10 GEL = 3 GBP). For the more adventurous, marshrutky (local buses without set
routes) travel between Tbilisi (outside Didube Metro station) and Mtskheta
several times a day and cost around 1 GEL. Whilst public transport is unfathomably cheap,
it can be difficult to use as destinations are usually shown in the fabulous
squiggly letters of the Georgian alphabet (and occasionally in Cyrillic). Few
drivers will speak English.
Georgia is a beautiful country with so much to offer its
visitors. There’s both ancient and
recent history, pretty towns, great food and friendly people just to name a
few. But the absolute highlight of my
trip was the stunning natural landscape.
The Greater Caucasus mountains are natural beauty on a scale I’ve never
seen before. These mountains are
colossal - rugged peaks poke up to 5068 meters into the sky. It quite literally took my breath away.
I took a group tour which followed the Georgian Military
Highway from Tbilisi to Kazbegi, stopping just short of the Russian border. Once outside of the city, the scenery along
the entire route was utterly spectacular.
The route passes the fairytale fortress of Ananuri before climbing high
into the Caucasus range. As the road
climbs to an elevation of 2379 meters, the landscape transforms quickly from
scrubland, to forest to steep, bare slopes.
The views become more and more spectacular the closer you get to Kazbegi
– the mountains get taller and taller.
From Kazbegi, we took a jeep up to the Gergeti
Monastery. If you’ve ever seen a picture
of Georgia, it was probably taken here. This
beautiful monastery is a sanctuary of peace, nestled at the foot of the 5033
meter giant that is Mount Kazbek.
Gergeti feels like the roof of the world – the beauty of the place is
outstanding.
Georgians will often tell you that their country was the birthplace
of wine. Whilst the sincerity of this
claim is up for question, I did really enjoy the wine here. There are a little under 400 grape varieties
grown in Georgia, so there are a lot of wines to choose from. Those with a particular interest in Georgian
wines may like to visit the Kakheti region where most of the vineyards are
found. I didn’t have time to visit Kakheti on this trip but there are lots of
organised tours from Tbilisi.
Low prices and a weak currency make budget travel
exceptionally easy in Georgia. A bed in
a shared hostel dorm should cost between 10 and 25 GEL per night - this usually
includes breakfast. The cheapest hostels
can be very basic. Food is also
extremely affordable – expect to pay around 15 GEL for a main course in a
mid-range restaurant in Tbilisi and slightly less off the beaten path. Flights
to Tbilisi can be hard to come by, with most connecting in Ukraine or
Turkey. Georgian Airways have, however,
just started a new direct route to London with two flights a week.
It amazes me that this beautiful and fascinating country
attracts so few travellers. It has
everything you could wish for in a destination – ancient history, spectacular
landscape, low prices and friendly people just to name a few. But it still manages to slip under the radar. But maybe this is what makes the place so
special – it’s undiscovered.
Have you been to Georgia or thinking of visiting? Let me
know in the comments section below!
Thanks for reading!
Elis Griffiths. x
[Footnote: Most of Georgia (including all places mentioned in this post) are very safe to visit. However the UK Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to the breakaway regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Seek advice before attempting to travel to these regions.]