Thailand’s Phi Phi islands (pronounced ‘PEE PEE’) have all
the essential attributes of a stereotypical tropical Paradise - crystal clear bathtub-warm waters, palm-fringed
white sand beaches and technicolour coral reefs. Vertical jungle-clad limestone cliffs soar
dramatically skyward from the turquoise waters as colonies of macaques cling on
for dear life. I must admit, when I
stepped off the ferry at Tonsai pier (the islands’ only portal to the outside
world), it felt like I had died and gone to Heaven. It was just like places I’d dreamed of all my
life - I was in awe.
My time in Phi Phi was limited and I was eager to pack in as
much sightseeing as possible, so as soon as I arrived I booked on to a full-day
boat tour with a bunch of other travellers.
My relationship with the islands was in its honeymoon phase and my love
for the place only grew. I visited picture-perfect
Maya Bay (the setting for Leonardo DiCaprio’s ‘The Beach’), went snorkelling
with young reef sharks and explored the hidden nooks and crannies of Phi Phi’s
spectacular coastline. I witnessed some
of the most awe-inspiring nature I’ve ever encountered and was in my element!
However, as the sun topples over the horizon and darkness
descends over Phi Phi, the islands reveal a completely different face. Hoards of tanked-up British, American and
Australian twenty-something-year-olds emerge from hibernation, bound for the
islands’ infamous booze-filled bars and clubs.
Local bylaws set partying limits at 2am, but in reality festivities rock
on until dawn. It’s like Ibiza on
steroids.
I strongly believe tourism brings with it great advantages
when controlled responsibly. It can
bring life-improving wealth to local and national economies and promote
open-mindedness. And whilst this has
certainly been the case in Phi Phi, it felt to me like the islands are becoming
a victim of their own success. Mass
tourism seems to be stifling the local culture and destroying the stunning
natural environments which made it so popular in the first place.
It would be short-sighted to write an article on the Phi Phi without acknowledging the tragic events of December 2004. A magnitude 9.3 earthquake followed by a devastating series of huge tsunami waves left the islands in tatters. It was a scene of utter devastation, with 70% of buildings destroyed beyond repair and an estimated 4,000 people dead on Phi Phi alone. A touching memorial on Phi Phi Don commemorates the victims of the disaster.
It's remarkable to see the recovery the islands have made since that fateful day. After years of reconstruction, there is barely a trace of the devastation which came before; buildings have sprung up from rubble, tourists have returned and islanders' lust for life is incredible. Nowadays, thorough evacuation procedures are in place in all low-lying coastal areas and there are signs everywhere pointing to the nearest tsunami shelter.
I stayed in Phi Phi for a total of two and a half days,
before returning to mainland Thailand to continue my adventure southward. I had a lot of fun in Phi Phi – I saw
spectacular landscapes and exotic wildlife, met some lovely people and had some
wicked nights out. But my feelings
toward the place are bittersweet.
Tourism was once a lifeline here, bringing relative wealth to once poor
communities (particularly following the tragic events of the tsunami), but that very lifeline itself is now destroying Phi Phi’s heart
and soul. And how long will the islands
be able to sustain this destruction?
Koh Phi Phi is a tropical paradise. But if the way visitors treat the place does not change, I worry for the islands’ future.
Have you visited Phi Phi? I’d love to know your thoughts!
Thanks for reading!
Elis Griffiths. x
